Platinum welding techniques
Use of the oxy-hydrogen torch and porosity management.
At a glanceAssembling platinum jewelry requires specialized soldering and welding techniques. With its high melting point, platinum allows seamless autogenous welding without solder, but demands extreme bench cleanliness.
1. Autogenous Welding (Direct Fusion Without Solder)
The gold standard in Geneva fine jewelry:
- Edges are fitted with zero gap and fused with an oxy-hydrogen micro-flame or precision laser.
- Advantage: The joint is 100% Pt950 identical to the surrounding ring, invisible and oxidation-free.
2. Stepped High-Temperature Platinum Solders
| Solder Grade | Fineness | Flow Point (°C) | Application |
|---|---|---|---|
| Platinum Extra-Hard | 950‰ Pt | 1,600 – 1,650 °C | Primary ring shank joints |
| Platinum Hard | 900‰ Pt/Au | 1,450 – 1,500 °C | Collet and basket assemblies |
| Platinum Medium | 800‰ Pt/Pd | 1,300 – 1,350 °C | Prong and setting attachments |
| Platinum Soft | 750‰ PGM | 1,150 – 1,200 °C | Final sizing and findings |
3 Golden Workshop Rules
1. Tungsten or ceramic tweezers: Never use steel tweezers; iron fuses with platinum at 1,400 °C, burning black holes into your piece.
2. Dry soldering: Work completely dry without borax.
3. Ceramic soldering block: Never solder on charcoal blocks.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ): Platinum Welding
Can platinum be laser welded?
Yes, platinum's lower thermal conductivity concentrates laser energy cleanly at the weld spot without heating neighboring gemstones.
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